Thermal Solar Window
Feb
16
The standard thermal window used to be double glass with a vacuum between, sometimes referred to by the trade name Thermopane. Now triple panes are commonplace, and there are windows with inert gases, such as argon, between the panes. Generally speaking, having more panes lets out less heat but lets in less light, and the newer, fancier models are considerably more expensive than older versions.
If you are thinking of using extremely high-tech windows, be sure you understand what they can and cannot do. Don’t just rely on the salesman. At best, he may be not as well informed as you. At worst, his livelihood depends on selling the windows.
In most cases, the easiest and cheapest fixed glass to buy is the standardized, factory-made material designed for glass doors. It comes in two sizes, roughly 4 by 6 and 3 by 6, and can be bought at glass specialty stores. You should get a substantial discount if you buy a large number (more than five) of these. In nonstandard sizes, such glass is vastly more expensive; a piece half the size may be twice the cost.
All thermal glass is extremely difficult to handle, being one of those annoying materials that combine considerable weight with great fragility. It will of course break if dropped, but it may also bend and destroy the vacuum seal if it is not supported equally at both ends, and for the larger pieces, in the middle as well.
This type of glass is usually guaranteed for five years. The guarantee is void if you install it out of plumb, for example in slanted windows in your sunspace. In any type of installation, pinholes can develop; these allow air to leak into the area between the two panes. This is likely to happen if the glass is not handled carefully, but it may happen in any case. If pinholes develop, condensation occurs within the window, which will considerably lower its R-value, impede the passage of light somewhat, and make the window look slightly dirty all the time. After six years, this happened to one of our twenty-four such windows; it is not yet sufficiently troublesome that we have replaced it.
In spite of these drawbacks, there is nothing you can buy that is more practical. With reasonable care, such windows will last many years.
Installing Windows
The store where you buy the windows will give you small hard rubber pads. These are used to support the windows while they are being stored (as nearly upright as possible) and are placed under them as a permanent part of their installation. This store will also sell you a rubberized caulk, smelling strongly of ammonia, which is the best material for embedding the windows and sealing any cracks.
Aside from the cautions above, putting in fixed windows is not very difficult. As advised earlier, you’ve made the ROs 1/4 inch larger all around than the windows. Decide whether it will be easier to install each window from inside or outside the house. In most cases, it will be inside. In either case the procedure is the same.
Nail a frame of 3/4-by-112-inch stock (”parting bead”) around the RO where you want the window to go. Sometimes, for a large window, 1-by2-inch stock is used. Insert the rubber “bumpers,” and caulk all around the opening. Put the bottom of the window in place, and tilt the top in. You may have to slide the window around slightly, but it should fit if the RO is large enough and the corners are all 90 degrees.
The walls of your house are thicker than normal. Put the window closer to the outside, three-quarters or more of the distance. This is better for solar heating; it will also give you attractive, deep windowsills that are handy places to display plants or gewgaws.
Cut off the excess rubber stop with a razor blade and save it for the next window. Make sure there is enough caulk all around, then nail a frame similar to the outside frame flush against the window.
TIP: Glass does not respond well to a wimpy, tentative approach. Even large panes will stand a lot of hammer vibration and an occasional glancing blow. (If you’re by nature aggressive, ignore this advice.) With large panes, light pressure on the center by the assistant’s hand while the master does the hammering will reduce the effect of vibration.
Nail with finish nails, countersink, and putty the holes. Use galva_ nized nails indoors and out; there will be moisture on the glass indoors at times. At some point in the finishing process, make exterior sills that match the parting bead and slant slightly downward for water runoff. The rest of the interior and exterior finish can be done to your own taste. Sills must be wood, but side and top interior frames may be Sheetrock that is eventually painted or papered. Be sure to plan your final framing of fixed windows so that you can remove broken ones without tearing the whole house apart.
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